Thoughts and Ramblings: Gladys City, Blind Willie flying through Interstellar Space, Ye Olde Block Farm, Friendliest City by a Lake, and a Bridge that Beaumont Hates. Happy Father’s Day.

Has anyone been to Gladys City lately? There is sure a lot of restoration going on. The old wildcatter city is getting a facelift, and it’s been long overdue. Gladys City was built as a Bicentennial project of the Lucas Gusher Monument Commission for the 75th anniversary of the Spindletop. Lamar University dedicated it in 1976. It was intended to be a temporary structure, but they are still holding their own. I will give a massive shout-out to Troy Gray for doing a fantastic job of keeping this gem running.

It reminds me of a book signing I went to at the McFaddin-Ward visitors center during which Jo Ann Stiles talked about her chapter in the book Just Between Us. In it, Stiles talks about her interview with Miss Alice, who lived in the real Glady’s City as a child. Miss Alice reveals both the good and the bad of how things were. This is what you want as a researcher, but the lore and Hollywood often get in the way of historical reality. It is a great book, and there’s a link to it at the bottom of the page.

Big Thicket Outlaws

As I mention Gladys City, I also need to say that the Big Thicket Outlaws have been entertaining folks for years at events in Gladys City and other places. The Big Thicket Outlaws have taken several losses during the past few years. The latest was Earl Keith (Tejano). He passed away in September 2021. He was a treasure that everyone will miss. The Outlaws have done a great job of bringing history to young folks and to us not-so-young folk. Below I’ve added links to past events that the Big Thicket Outlaws participated in at Glady’s City, which I photographed.

Blind Willie Johnson

Straight from the NASA files and Voyager 2, all is well, but the computers in Voyager 1 are troubled by a mysterious glitch. I guess that’s what you get with 1970s technology that’s lasted for 45 years. One thing to add is that both space probes are still working and traveling in interstellar space. To me, this means Blind Willie Johnson’s music has made it out of the solar system and is currently in uncharted territory, along with Beethoven, Bach, and Stravinsky. I’d say this is still a big deal. Blind Willie was a Beaumont preacher who had a music contract with a major label, Columbia Records. Yet he died poor. I have his story below.

Martin Block homestead

Things here on Ye Olde Block Farm are going well after the F-0 tornado decided to attack a few businesses on Nederland Avenue, then move into our area, a few weeks back. It sure seemed to hate water Oaks and some roofs, but it didn’t last long unless you were in its path, in which case it was Hurricane Rita all over again. I’m sure this isn’t the first time this has happened. Martin Block owned and cultivated this old farmland from the 1900s to the 1940s. You might recognize the last name. He was W. T. Block’s uncle. I have a couple of articles from the Beaumont Enterprise from 1927 and 1930 where journalist Dean Tevis spotlighted him in his weekly articles. Back then, old Dean wrote about these farmers like rock stars. It is fascinating to go back and read what things were like in the 1920s and 30s. Those Boll weevils caused many headaches. Dean wrote that Martin had the first truck in Port Neches to deliver his goods to Beaumont. He also had a sugar mill about a block away from his home.

I know that the live oaks were planted by the Block family before 1908, and they are my treasures. On Google Earth, there is a history tab that you can click on to get an aerial view of Jefferson County from 1938. I can see my trees in their blurry magnificence all those years ago. An added tidbit is that the Rowleys also lived not too far from here.

Something that’s been irking me for years involves only Port Arthurans. Why has Port Arthur been known as the friendliest city by the sea for years? You’re next to a lake. I won’t even mention when some committee gave the go-ahead to paint waves on the concrete barrier in the middle of Highway 69, 96, 287, leading into the heart of Port Arthur, then painted over them a few months later because TxDOT can’t even paint waves properly. Oh well, we’re not perfect, but at least some of us know the difference between a lake and a sea. Rant done! I guess we can go back to being friendly unless the powers over that project see this, then my work is done.

This week, the Saharan dust was a sight over the Rainbow Bridge. It was almost like fog. I know this bridge caused a lot of hell before it was built. Beaumont fought hard for this bridge not to be built because that would mean the people traveling from Port Arthur/Groves wouldn’t have to drive thru Beaumont to Orange County. There was a ferry before the bridge, but there were long waits. Beaumont lost and the bridge was built, making all of Mid and South County happy. I should do an in-depth research project on how much mud-slinging went on. I guess it’s water under the bridge. Of course, it is because it’s too darn high. A shout-out to everyone who took their driver’s ed road test over this rainbow because you deserved that license. Also, to the truckers who slapped rearview mirrors when it was a two-way bridge.

I just noticed it’s Father’s Day, so I’ll leave you a Susie Spindletop Weekly Letter entry from June 16, 1929.

MARY AUTRY HIGGINS came along with the epitaph she found somewhere:

Here lyeth the body of WILLIAM STRATTON

buried May 18, 1734

Age 97

Who had by his first wife 28 children

By his second, 17

Own father to 45,

Grandfather to 86,

Great-grandfather to 97,

great great- grandfather to 23…in all 251

***

Happy Fathers Day

Just Between Us : https://www.amazon.com/Just-Between-Us-Stories-Memories/dp/1936205785

Big Thicket Outlaws: https://www.flickr.com/photos/25032584@N05/albums/72157635129081778#:~:text=https%3A//flic.kr/s/aHsjHA9m2G

https://www.flickr.com/photos/25032584@N05/albums/72157639674774734#:~:text=https%3A//flic.kr/s/aHsjQvQdbb

https://www.flickr.com/photos/25032584@N05/albums/72157678910933385#:~:text=https%3A//flic.kr/s/aHskShZMba

https://www.flickr.com/photos/25032584@N05/albums/72157692218171835#:~:text=https%3A//flic.kr/s/aHsmdyURxR

Blind Willie Johnson: https://www.rediscoveringsetx.com/2012/08/23/blind-willie-johnson/

Thoughts and Ramblings: Too fat to put on booties, Pie Face, Seven Oaks, Berthe DeBretagne, Old Sparks Cemetery, moved in the 50s, and thanks to Albert.

Well, I’ve been dieting again. The main reason is that I couldn’t bend down and put on the booties during the Historic Homes Tour in Galveston. Actually, this makes me think of all the food I grew up eating. There were many good places in Port Arthur, but I stand by my Hartmans, Monceauxs, and Fish Net picks. I also want to mention Pie Face. Her jambalaya was not of this world in the 1990s. This was when she was cooking in the Jefferson City Shopping Center. It was the old Ted’s Record Shop. I know that she was previously located near Church’s Chicken on Bluebonnet. Pork Jambalaya that only an angel from Heaven could have cooked, and sweet tea for $5.

As a kid, my family didn’t travel much. As I stated a few weeks ago, we were the poor sods who ate sandy hotdogs on McFaddin Beach, so I don’t know the appetite of North Jefferson County or even the other counties in SETX. Except for Tyler County, we all know that your Pickett House is almost a religious experience. Our Boondocks was too. What was your favorite dining spot in the counties that make up SETX, and is it still around?

When traveling along Twin-city Hwy, just before the point where Hwy 366 connects to it, you will see seven Oak trees planted back in the 1980s in a circle near the train bridge. TxDOT did not do this landscaping. The tribute to the seven astronauts who perished in the Challenger explosion in January 1986 was made by the Nederland Historical Society. I’ll give a shout-out to William D. Quick for this. When I first heard about the disaster, I was on the same porch where I saw a formation of T-6 Texans all dressed up to look like Mitsubishi A6M Zeros for the Tora, Tora, Tora airshow at the Jefferson County Airport. I also saw Air Force One in 1980. The president was here doing what politicians do. I’m still in awe of the planes but don’t care for politicians unless it’s Winston Churchill. I will go on record to say that I’m pro-peanuts, though.

Last weekend I used my time wisely. It had been a while since I updated my files–what a weekend of filing! Nine months of files uploaded and sent to the database for humanity. You’re welcome. There were many interesting things waiting to be uploaded, such as several Port Arthur News clips of Mrs. Hugo DeBretagne. She was quite a patriot, I believe. If you have followed this blog, you’ve seen me mention Hugo J. DeBretagne. She was his mother. Although I haven’t done an in-depth article on H.J., it remains an ongoing project. Below I offer a storyline for this family and hope to expand it in the future.

The father, Hugo S. DeBretagne, fought in WWI and found a bride in Belgium, named Berthe. After the war, they lived in Port Arthur and had two sons, Hugo J. and James. Throughout the 1920s and 30s, there are many mentions of Berthe DeBretagne giving public speeches or heading the Women’s Auxiliary. Since she was mentioned more than her children and husband, I can only assume that she was a go-getter.

In the 1940s, both sons enlisted and were sent to fight in the Pacific. This is where it gets fuzzy for me as a researcher. I do know that James fought at Guadalcanal, but there is no mention of Hugo. The only information I could find is for the Battle of Tarawa. Hugo J. DeBretagne was killed in action on the third and last day of the battle (November 23, 1943). His brother James survived the war. He died in 2008, but I am yet to find his story. Mrs. DeBretagne continued to be in the spotlight with the Women’s Auxiliary in the newspapers, but in 1946 she divorced her husband and went her own way. I will not attempt to explain this decision because I can’t. It is what it is. Berthe eventually remarried an immigrant from Australia named William George Hay. She is buried near her son’s memorial stone in Greenlawn in Groves, Texas. This is one story I will continue to research.

Sparks Cemetery

Another group of files I uploaded was on the Sparks Cemetery and how it was moved in the 1950s. The cemetery was located on Dupont land between Nederland and Beaumont on TwinCity Highway. The McFaddins owned the ground at the time, and both they and Dupont moved all 30 residents of the cemetery to Forest Lawn in Beaumont. I will give the McFaddins and Dupont kudos for actually moving the bodies to their new resting place. There are many accounts of Beaumont cemeteries simply left underneath sites of urban expansion. I will get into that in the future.

Well, that’s it for this week. I’ll mention that I was surprised to make it in the Out and About with Albert section of The Examiner newspaper for the Memorial Service at Magnolia Cemetery. It’s better than the police beat. Au revoir.

Food for Thought in Port Arthur Texas (70s -80s)

https://www.rediscoveringsetx.com/2013/01/23/food-for-thought-in-port-arthur-texas-70s-80s/

Thoughts and Ramblings: Memorial Day, World War I, Interurban, and Beware of Hurakan

Memorial Day is tomorrow, and there will be many events in the area marking this solemn holiday. As I mentioned before, I kind of get confused with November 11 because that is the day World War I ended. It is also a day to remember the fallen of the Great War. In the US, we recognize that day to thank our living veterans, while on the last Monday of May we celebrate the veterans who gave everything. I do hope everyone remembers their sacrifice.

There’s an article in the Beaumont Journal dated May 29, 1920, about a monument’s dedication. At the time, the Beaumont Journal raised money to build a memorial in Keith Park in honor of the “Beaumont Boys” who had fallen in the first world war. The monument was later moved and still sits in front of the Beaumont Enterprise building on North Main and Mulberry Street.

There were many monuments/tributes to World War I in this area. One that I recently came across was Memorial Highway, which you may know of as Highway 287, 69, 96. It begins at the seawall in Port Arthur where Highway 69 and 96 split in Lumberton. Another tribute was Berlin Street in Beaumont, renamed Pershing Street after General Pershing, the American Expeditionary Forces commander in the Great War. The street was renamed Foch Street sometime before 1941. I assume this was done was in honor of Ferdinand Foch, the Supreme Allied Commander during World War I. Yet another monument is a 48-star US flag made of cement that is currently in front of the American Legion Post 7 named Rudolph Lambert, after the first soldier from Port Arthur to be killed in France.

The most well-known tribute is the Temple to the Brave, built in 1932. Located at 1350 Pennsylvania in Beaumont, the monument was designed to look like a small English church, and the stained glass is incredible. Today, it functions as a memorial to veterans of all wars. Inside it, there are relics on display that date up to the Gulf War. The monument is only open to the public on Memorial Day, Flag Day (June 14), Patriot Day (September 11), Veteran’s Day (November 11), and Pearl Harbor Day (December 7). It’s worth a visit.

Now that the Historic Homes Tour is over, I can get back to another Historic Tour. The 2nd Annual Historic Magnolia Cemetery Tour is scheduled for October (exact dates coming soon). We hope to bring to light stories from Beaumont’s past—some old and some new. There are nearly 30,000 residents in Magnolia Cemetery, and all of them have stories to tell. Most of these people were not famous. They lived their lives the best they could and did remarkable things away from the limelight of most SETX historians. These are the best stories, and we honor them by retelling them.

I had an interesting conversation today about the Interurban. For those who don’t know, Jefferson County had an electric train that ran from Austin Avenue in Port Arthur to Orleans Street in Beaumont between 1913 and 1932. The train made 19 trips per day, starting at 5:45 a.m. and finishing at midnight. Tickets cost 90 cents for a roundtrip and 50 cents one way; they were prorated for the ten stops between the two cities. The stops along the way included South Park, Spindletop, Nederland, Rice Farm, and Griffing/Pear Ridge. No tracks are left today, but you can still see some of the pathways by the high lines. I have a map of the old depot area at Pear Ridge that kind of explains why 9th avenue is all curvy in front of the Bob Hope School. It was two separate roads at the time. I don’t know the year of the map, unfortunately, but it shows 9th avenue as Avenue E north of the school’s current location and Avenue F to the east, with the tracks in the middle. A Sanborn map from 1930 shows this same setup, but the name is already the current one. Sometime after 1932, the roads were combined by either the powers that be or people taking shortcuts. I think it was the latter.

If you want to know more about our electric train, I have a link at the bottom of this page.

I hate to bring this up, but hurricane season begins next week. Back in 2012, I wrote a piece called The Destructive Side of History, and there have been a few times that I’ve wanted to update it, but each time the Storm Gods keep ridin’ into town. So that idea is on a permanent hiatus. If something does develop, I guess I’ll be like the rest of you—glued to meteorologist Donald Jones’s live sessions on the US National Weather Service Lake Charles Louisiana Facebook page. Fingers crossed.

Until next time, stay safe, and if you see Jim Cantore, the storm god Hurakan is not far behind.

Temple to the Brave: http://www.texasescapes.com/WorldWarI/TempleToTheBrave/TempleToTheBrave.htm

Temple to the Brave photos: https://flic.kr/s/aHsjYptPKZ

Interurban Railway:

https://www.rediscoveringsetx.com/2013/07/10/interurban-railway/

Interurban 100th Anniversary:

https://www.rediscoveringsetx.com/2013/12/15/100th-anniversay-of-the-interurban/

The Destructive Side of History:

https://www.rediscoveringsetx.com/2012/07/12/the-destructive-side-of-history/

When the Storm God Rides by Florence Stratton and Bessie Reid:

https://www.sacred-texts.com/nam/se/wsgr/index.htm

Thoughts and Ramblings: Candy Lady, Whine, Little League, and Memorial Day

The 48th Annual Galveston Homes Tour is a wrap, and I hope everyone had a chance to visit the beautiful houses. There were more long lines than in some previous years, but it was certainly worth it for some homes. As a gatekeeper, I am the one you usually meet first, and I can say we had one great bunch of people visiting the cover house. You were great because some things went wrong, especially with the technology, but we all soldiered on. One thing to remember for next year is that you MUST keep hydrated during the tour. Free water stations were available in all the houses this year, and I’m sure it will be the same next year, so there is no excuse: hydrate! If you visit the home I volunteer at, you will also find candy for an extra boost. The candy is donated by Beverly Davis (you might know her as the “candy lady” on the tour). Beverly is in charge of our group, and she is incredible. I have volunteered with her for a good many years now, and I’m already looking forward to the next.

Every Monday morning, I drive to a work site through Orange County, which takes around 30 to 40 minutes. Al and the gang on 560 KLVI usually blare on the radio until I get to the site; Sirius XM follows. Why KLVI? Probably because I’m used to a little whine on my daily commute. This Monday I heard that the Cincinnati Reds baseball team pitched a no-hitter. I should be ecstatic because in the 70s that was my team! For all you Astro fans, y’all were the farm team for Cincinnati. I know this because we used to go to the Astrodome every time the Reds were in town for a doubleheader and watch them sweep. (But I will always love Jose Cruz.) They also stole many of your players, but I digress.

The Seagull 1918

I mention this because Cincinnati pitched a no-hitter and lost, which brings me back to when I played in the Bellaire little league for Duraso Pharmacy. We weren’t the most athletic of sorts. There was no name for the team other than the company that sponsored us, so we named ourselves the Dirty Pigs because of the DP on the hat. (Shocking that a group of 10-year-olds would do that.) Our team was involved in a no-hitter, but unlike Cincinnati, we had one pitcher. I don’t remember the strategy, but either our pitcher or the coach, who was usually intoxicated, decided to wear out the other team by walking them. We lost 9-2. I’m really surprised that we managed to score two runs.

Memorial Day is coming up, which usually confuses me. Not the reason, but the date. I’m aware it’s linked to European history and World War I, but for us it goes back to the Civil War. The day was known as Decoration Day because both the North and the South poignantly put flowers on the graves of the fallen. Usually, the women tended to the graves because the men were lying underground. This wasn’t a good scenario for either side. All who were left did what they could. In my opinion, it’s good to look back at history, especially to learn from the past. George Santayana once said, “Those who do not remember the past are condemned to repeat it.”

Magnolia Cemetery has a memorial service on Saturday, May 28. It’s just a way to remember all the veterans who didn’t make it home and thank them for their sacrifice. We also include all the veterans that came back and lived great lives, but have passed. It’s a small service from 11 to 12. I hope you can make it. We are also working on a database of veterans buried at Magnolia Cemetery. This is a big project because the cemetery has about 30,000 residents, and half of them served in some form or another.

Speaking of veterans and Memorial Day, my friend and fantastic finder of things, Don Smart, gave me a 1918 edition of the Seagull. I’ve talked about this before. The Seagull was the high school yearbook of Port Arthur High School. Since this edition is from World War I, I want to delve a little deeper into its pages. I love these old books.

I guess I should up the ante on researching old cemeteries. I do know that the Lewis Cemetery hasn’t been seen since 1932. In Mildred Wright’s cemetery book, it is located between 19th and 23rd streets. To my knowledge, it was never moved, so if you live 200 yards north of the Olive Garden in Beaumont, you may not want to put in a pool. I might also throw in the old Civil War Cemetery under Fire Station One. Apparently, that cemetery was also never moved, and yes, it was haunted.

Until next time, stay hydrated—my old Little League coach did.

Cheers!

Thoughts and Ramblings: Beach Road Memories, Nudists, Shipwreck, TxDot is the Devil, Bessie Reid, and a worthy tribute to Bill.

Today, I travel down the beach road to Galveston. I have no problem going through Winnie/Stowell, but it would be a lot more retro if we could spend millions of dollars restoring Highway 87 between Sabine Pass and High Island until another tropical storm wipes it out. I’m sure it’s not feasible, but it would be more convenient. I also know the downside of this, and I’m not talking about money. I would have to pass the nudie beach before getting to the cross and Hwy 124. Is the nudie beach still a thing?

I did see that TxDOT has been trying to stop the flooding on the highway with rocks and borders. This is a good thing. I also saw a few old pipes sticking up off the beach, which used to be connected to beach houses just on the waterline. Erosion is the devil. I remember taking a drive to Crystal Beach in 2008 after Hurricane Ike to volunteer for a cleanup. The Bolivar Peninsula was in a pretty sad state, but they were determined to rebuild and look at them now. One thing that was weird was not seeing all of you fishing at Rollover Pass after they filled it in on a dark and dreary night. Well, so much for offshore fishing on a bridge.

A shipwreck just off the beach at Rettilon Road (just before you get to Fort Travis and the ferry) is something of a mystery. I never knew about this wreck until a friend sent me an article about it in 2017. It’s not from the Civil War era—maybe from the late 1900s? I would love to find out more about it. I’ve asked numerous people, but they have no clue. If you know where the ship came from, please tell me; the pelicans don’t.

It’s the second weekend of the Galveston Historic Homes Tour, and I would normally tour the houses again; this year, instead, I will help out a friend and volunteer. I love taking the tour. Sometimes, when you’re in line, you meet others who also love this event and have stories of their experience volunteering. These stories are priceless to me. I will say that volunteers may be from different backgrounds, but they think the same. They love the experience and gripe about it at the same time. I guess it means we’re all family. By the way, if you are traveling from Houston to Galveston there is a mess on a bridge near Tiki Island. It’s one lane only. TxDOT IS the DEVIL. Luckily, I will be taking the ferry in the morning, but I’ve brought my 706-page diary of a WW2 admiral to read while I wait in line on Ferry Road to leave Galveston. I’m sure I’ll finish it, but I already know the ending; it’s not good for him. #Ugaki

As Florence Stratton referred to her, I have Mrs. Bruce Reid on my list of subjects to research in detail. You may have heard of her as Bessie Reid from Port Arthur, and you may have had a textbook entitled When the Storm God Rides: Tejas and Other Indian Legends. This was the last book Florence Stratton published. It was definitely a hit on the elementary school scene. Bessie was an avid birder and a researcher of the Native American tribes of Texas. This is why the original story of Kisselpoo was born on the pages of the Port Arthur News on July 1st, 1923. It’s a great story, but there was never an Indianette from Port Neches whom the Moon goddess loved and drowned in Lake Sabine. Native American tribes did winter in Port Neches, but that is a whole lot of lost history. You can thank Joseph Grigsby,  the Civil War, Beaumont’s muddy roads, and Texaco for the loss of the burial mounds, which I’m sure were sights to see.

Well, it seems that most of my ramblings were beach-related. I hope that’s alright with you. Thinking back to my childhood, my family didn’t have a beach house. We were the poor sods that ate sandy hotdogs on McFaddin Beach. (There must be many here that did the same.) One thing I hope is that they rebuild the beach road to High Island. It’s what we knew. And if they do, I hope they call it the William D. Quick Highway, because talking to those who knew him, it’s clear that no one loved this stretch of road more than Bill.

Until next week. Aloha!

Thoughts and Ramblings: Jorge Mireles, Dionisio Rodriguez, Historic Home Tours, and Black-eyed Susans

Jorge Mireles headstone

There are many fascinating things to discover at Magnolia Cemetery. The architecture, the stained glass of the mausoleums, the memorials, the unique headstones, and the statues are all attractions for many photographers. The tours, of course, focus on all the stories and legends of Beaumont’s past. But there are some wonders that few people notice as they walk on the hillside of the original cemetery.

One example is the grave of Jorge Mireles, which is located behind William Patterson’s resting place. Some of you may know that William Patterson was the first Beaumont police officer killed in the line of duty. His murderer was a 17-year-old Patillo Higgins, but I digress! Jorge—or George, as most people called him—was the son of the owners of Tampico Café on Crockett street. Unfortunately, his life was cut short by tuberculosis. His gravestone mentions that he was originally from San Antonio.

At first glance, the headstone is similar to those of the 1920s, but if you look at the degraded stone’s border, you will see something special. The border is made of cement, but the material is designed to look like petrified wood. At the time, an artist called Dionisio Rodriguez made a living by sculpting faux bois, or fake wood (to us non-French speakers). Dionisio was Mexican-born but his home was in San Antonio. He traveled throughout the US but did a lot of work in Texas; he also spent some time in this area. His local works include the Eddingston Court shell fence (1929) in Port Arthur and the benches at St. Elizabeth Hospital/the Phelan Mansion property in Beaumont.

Although it is apparent that Dionisio was here during the mid to late twenties, I can’t tie him to Jorge’s grave since Jorge died in 1923, but they both had San Antonio roots. It is also possible that someone, seeing Dionisio’s creations, thought that it would be a nice touch for the family. I’m sure this will always remain a mystery, but you never know what you may uncover in the future.

The Galveston Historic Homes Tour is next week, and I’m excited about yet another round of shiplap. Truthfully, I am! The restorers spend a lot of money to make these properties glorious again, especially today. I remember once touring a beautiful house where one of the volunteers knew the person living across the street. They acknowledged that from the outside, the property looked like it had been abandoned for many years; however, the inside was totally redone. Some may wonder why the exterior remodeling had been skimpy. Taxes.

Another memory I have is of volunteering at a house across the street from the Sacred Heart Catholic Church. The neighbor’s cat seemed to crave the attention of everyone lining up to take the tour. This was not a problem until said cat decided to have lunch in the yard in full view of our tourers. I assume doves are a delicacy. We actually talked to the neighbor about his cat, and he replied

Yes, he does what he does. He usually hangs out at the church on Sundays, then likes to lie around at this house.

I also volunteered at a house on the same block the following year, and, yes, he was there. Bon appétit!

First Annual Historic Magnolia Cemetery Tour

Many things have changed in the five years since our last tour. In 2017, we were planning our fourth trek into Beaumont’s past when Hurricane Harvey devastated our area, and other events have occurred, such as tropical storm Imelda (2019), hurricanes Laura and Delta (2020), and a global pandemic to boot. We are still dealing with pandemic concerns, but things are slowly getting back to normal. As I write, our area’s business is in full swing, and many events are taking place to the satisfaction of those who have been couped up, hunkered down, and “Zoomed out.” They want to get out and regain some normalcy in their lives. We all do.

Earlier this summer, Magnolia Cemetery contacted me about possibly bringing back the tour. I also felt it was time to get back in the saddle, so to speak, and continue what we started back in 2014—but with a twist. Our newest incarnation of the tour will be christened The First Annual Historic Magnolia Cemetery Tour. Why the first, you ask? Here’s why: ever since I attended the Liberty County Historical Commission’s (LCHC’s) Whispers from the Past tour in 2013 and 2014, I have felt that this part of SETX needed something like this to bring its rich history to life—if not a reenactment-type tour, such as the LCHC beautifully performed, then a walking history tour of our hallowed grounds, which could be an excellent way of showing our history and teaching everyone how life was back then.

Our first cemetery tour, in 2014, was for the docents of the McFaddin-Ward House. In 2015 and 2016, we presented a tour sponsored by the Beaumont Heritage Society, which was a phenomenal success. In 2021, we want to bring to light a few things about one of the older cemeteries in Beaumont. Magnolia Cemetery is a not-for-profit cemetery, meaning it does not reap money from the people and families interred there. The aim of the tour is to promote the area’s history, show the beauty of the cemetery’s monuments, statues, and artwork, and tell the stories of those who are not so famous but contributed to Beaumont’s future.

This will be an annual fall event, but we hope to offer more educational tours throughout the year if there is a demand.

The tour is free to the public, and we hope to see you there.

The tour dates are as follows:

Thursday, October 21, 2021, 5:30 p.m.

Saturday, October 23, 2021, 10:00 a.m.

43rd Annual Galveston Historic Homes Tour

This past weekend marked a beautiful start to the 43rd Annual Galveston Historic Homes Tour. The weather was gorgeous, and the powers that be expect the same for this coming weekend. Given such good weather, I anticipated that the tour would have a huge turnout, and boy was that confirmed as the day progressed. Lines were long at some houses, but they moved swiftly. Most homes on the tour have shade for visitors, with the exception of the c1880 Alley House, so you might want to see this one first, before the sun gets too hot.

 

 

 

 

After a stop at the Old City Cemetery on Broadway to photograph the wildflowers, we began at the tour’s Cover House, the 1868 Charles and Susan Hurley House. I immediately understood why this was the premier house on the tour. Its posh landscape along with its lovely exterior can entice all who visit, but a look inside is also a must: this is truly the jewel of the tour. My fondness for this gem only grew during the additional day I spent volunteering there as the gatekeeper on Sunday.

Our next stop was the c1880 Alley House: a very tiny abode, but a well-done restoration. The current owner has done a fabulous job. While you are visiting, please make a note to stay on the runners; although the owner has not requested that all who enter wear booties, he still would not like his floors tarnished from the gravel outside. So wipe your feet!

Our next venture was touring the 1904 Thomas and Maggie Bollinger House. Note that this is the only house in which the owners requested all visitors to wear booties. It’s a beautiful house, with varying decor. My favorite was the original 1910 Ouija board!

 

Moving on, we visited the 1905 James and Emma Davis House, where I noticed the amazing wood floors. I decided they surely could not be original, and I was correct in my assumption – but as usual, I was totally wrong on the period! Originally from a bank, they were installed in the house in 1915.

 

Next on the list were two abodes side by side: the 1925 Joseph and Helen Swiff House and the 1926 Harry and Harriet Wetmore House. The Wetmore house had long lines, but as with the other properties, they moved quickly. Inside, both dwellings had appeal. The blueprint reproductions of the house, including the fireplace, was a nice touch in the Swiff house, and the elevator inside the Wetmore House was priceless.

 

 

Lunch was our usual. I don’t think we can go to Galveston and not eat at Shrimp and Stuff.

 

 

Our second leg of the tour began at the largest house, the 1916 Hans and Marguerite Guldmann House. By size, this castle dwarfed most of the other houses on the tour, and understandably, there was a wait. If you want to see this house, please be prepared for the wait, both in line beforehand and throughout the tour. There is a lot to see.

The final stop for the restored houses was the 1899 William and Ella Dugey House. It’s a beautiful house, both inside and out, and should be a definite stop on your tour. And yes, 15 people did live in the house. I know this because I was reminded by each docent as we walked through.

 

 

 

 

 

We also visited the 1915 H.W. Hildebrand Tenant House, a restoration in progress. I hope to see it on future tours, along with the 1920 City National Bank Building, which is also being restored.

Overall, the tour included beautiful houses with some modern flair, as expected. The lines for entry were long in a few cases but were generally fast moving, with the exception of the 1916 Hans and Marguerite Guldmann House. The scripts were shortened this year by the Galveston Historical Foundation to help the tour flow more smoothly. After all, most visitors (including me) are there to see the wonderful restorations that the current owners have made inside the houses. So hopefully this will make your visit even grander.

The Galveston Historic Homes Tour will resume this weekend. Hours for both Saturday and Sunday are 10:00 am to 6:00 pm. I will be at the 1926 Harry and Harriet Wetmore House on Sunday from 12:30 to 3:30, so stop by and take a look at this beautiful house. I’ll try not to stand in the way!

Nicholas Joseph Clayton (Architect)

While attending tours and lectures, or just sightseeing on Galveston Island over the past three years, one name has constantly been mentioned in relation to the history of the island’s beautiful architecture. I therefore decided to delve into the background of the person who produced so much of the artistry that is still here for us to enjoy.

Nicholas Joseph Clayton was born on November 1, 1840, in Cloyne, County Cork, Ireland. After his father’s death, he and his mother immigrated to Cincinnati, Ohio, in 1848. During his pre-civil wartime life, he worked as a plasterer in a few cities that spanned both sides of the Mason–Dixon line. From 1862 to 1865 he served as a yeoman in the U.S. Navy.

After the war he returned to Cincinnati and worked as a marble carver. City directories show his progress from working as a carver in 1866 to becoming an architectural draftsman in 1871. In October of 1871 he moved to Houston. While there, he was appointed as the supervising architect for the First Presbyterian Church in Galveston. It is here that evidence of his exceptional craftsmanship first revealed itself. Clayton designed many different types of buildings from 1873 to 1900 with most of his greatest works being produced in the 1880s and 1890s.

Although his artistry can be found in many structures, I could not include all the treasures he designed and/or built in this post, so I will present a few highlights from his illustrious career.

Eaton Memorial Chapel:  In 1882, the chapel was dedicated as a memorial to the Rev. Benjamin Eaton, founding rector, 1841–71. DSC00848

George Sealy House and Carriage House (circa 1891): Nicholas Clayton is credited as being the supervising architect, Stanford White the designer, and McKim, Mead, and White the architectural firm.

Ursuline Academy (circa 1894): According to Howard Barnstone’s book, The Galveston That Was, this was Clayton’s largest and most important architectural design. Unfortunately it was demolished in 1962 after sustaining major damage from Hurricane Carla in 1961.

University of Texas Medical School (circa 1890): This treasure still stands as a monument to Clayton’s work but is surrounded by progress. It is part of what is now the University of Texas Medical Branch at Galveston.

Gresham Mansion (circa 1892): Since taking the Basement to Attic tour a few weeks ago, I regard this castle as my favorite of his works. The Gresham Mansion is now known as Bishop’s Palace and is open for tours.IMG_9908

Sacred Heart Church (circa 1892): The original building was destroyed in the Great Storm of 1900. At the time of its construction, the Catholic Diocese was unhappy with the original design and sought out Clayton to finish the project. The present building was designed by Brother S. J. Jimenez.IMG_9912

Other architectural designs by Clayton include Galveston Pavilion (circa 1881, burned in 1883), Harmony Hall (circa 1881, burned in 1928), Beach Hotel (circa 1883, burned in 1898), and St. Mary’s Infirmary (circa 1874, demolished in 1965).

Nicholas Clayton died on December 9, 1916, and is buried in Calvary Catholic Cemetery in Galveston. I for one see his contributions as a major part of SETX architecture. So many of his beautiful structures still stand today. These works are a tribute to the genius of a poor Irish immigrant who succeeded in making SETX that much more beautiful.

Sources:

Howard Barnstone, The Galveston That Was (1966)

Galveston Historical Foundation

Bishop’s Palace (Galveston Texas)

 

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One tour that has eluded me for a few years now is the Bishop’s Palace in Galveston.  I have religiously taken the Galveston Tour of Homes for the past three years, and I will continue to do so, but this “castle” has been unavailable for my scheduling. This is why I was so elated for the Galveston Historical Foundation to have its “Basement to Attic Tour” of their treasure in February.

First, let me say that the $30 charge for the tour was well worth it. All funds go to the restoration of this fine structure, and I for one want to help when I can. Second, the docent was a wealth of knowledge, and entertaining as well.

The main highlight of the tour includes, of course, the architecture. IMG_9842

The Bishop’s Palace, built circa 1892 and originally called the Gresham House, or Gresham Mansion, was built by Nicholas Clayton for railroad magnate and politician Walter Gresham.  The stone and woodwork is simply unmatched to most in SETX. I will say the George Sealy Mansion, circa 1889 and designed by Stanford White, is on the same level, but it is privately owned by UTMB and unavailable for tours. I was fortunate to visit it during the Galveston Historical Foundation’s 39th annual Tour of Homes in 2013.  Those of us who live in the Sabine-Neches River part of SETX might be reminded of the woodwork found in the Stark and McFaddin-Ward Houses.

IMG_9806During the tour, you will see a few painted prints, ceilings, cups, etc. painted by Josephine Gresham, wife of Walter. The artwork, especially on the ceiling of the dining room, is a must see.

The Catholic Diocese of Galveston purchased the mansion in 1923 to serve as the residence for Bishop C. E. Byrne. After the Diocese moved their offices to Houston, it was turned into a museum in the early 1960s and remained under their control until it was sold in 2013 to the Galveston Historical Foundation.

IMG_9800Again, I stress that this is a treasure that needs to be enjoyed in person. My preference is the Basement to Attic Tour. Enjoy!

Guided tours are available seven days a week, from 12:30 – 3:30 pm.

Audio tours are also available seven days a week, from 11 am – 5 pm.

The Galveston Historical Foundation’s “Basement to Attic Tour” dates are as follows:

March 15; April 19; May 17; June 7, 21; July 5, 19; and August 2, 16

The tour starts at 11 am sharp!

For more photos click here: http://flic.kr/s/aHsjTvq7EV