Bertha Terry Cornwell Museum / Sour Lake

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IMG_7840   Last week I had the pleasure of visiting the Cornwell Museum, along with some of Sour Lake’s other historic sites. I will say once again that there is so much to see and learn in Hardin County, and its oldest surviving city is certainly filled with history. Sour Lake was settled in 1835 when Stephen Jackson was granted the land by the Mexican State of Coahuilla. The name itself is derived from the sulfurous spring water, which was abundant in the area at the time. These mineral wells would play a big part in the area’s early years. In fact, a health resort was constructed around them, complete with bath houses and a fine hotel. Sam Houston was a frequent visitor here in his later years and liked to indulge in the healing properties of the wells. There were even plans to build a glorious spa, but in 1903, all that changed.IMG_7845 If you do a search for The Texas Company, you will see that it was founded in Beaumont, but a company without a product doesn’t have much leg to stand on. Luckily, The Texas Company Fee No. 3 in Sour Lake struck oil on January 8, 1903, and so began Texaco’s rise as a major oil producer. IMG_7861The Bertha Terry Cornwell Museum is a treasure trove of artifacts and photos. These range from The Texas Company history to the founding families that established the commercial side of Sour Lake. One could spend numerous hours looking through the Museum’s vast collection—so vast in fact that the curators cannot put it all on display. But it is there for historians and history seekers such as myself to enjoy and learn from. Indeed, I would like to extend a big thank you to the curator and the others who made my visit so enjoyable. Their knowledge is immeasurable and the time they spent sharing this with me is greatly appreciated. Also on the property are Hardin County’s original jail cells, which were in use from 1870 to 1888. These were also subsequently utilized between 1903 and 1965 as Hardin County’s sub-jail cells.IMG_7868 My exploration included a walk through downtown Sour Lake, and I was delighted to see the charming murals on some of its finely restored buildings. It would seem that the people of Sour Lake have done a fantastic job of preserving its history, and I for one thank them for their efforts and hope to frequent this part of SETX more often. IMG_7898

The Cornwell Museum is located at 300 South Ann St. behind the Alma M. Carpenter Bldg.

 Click on the link below to see more photos.

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Finding History Through 80 Year Old Pages

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Susie Spindltop's Weekly Letter's 1926-1931

 

For the past year or so, I have spent countless hours browsing through the microfilms of the Sunday editions of the Beaumont Enterprise. My main reason for spending so much time doing this has been to research the life and times of Florence Stratton, and I have determined that most of the “historically accurate” information about her is wrong. I found this out by going through census records, city directories, and yes, her weekly letter, which was published from February 1926 to January 1938. It is interesting to note how much you can learn a lot about the culture and happenings of a society through its gossip column.f3

I figured that if I wanted to learn more about someone then I would have to go to the source, and “Susie Spindletop’s Weekly Letter” was where Florence revealed a few tidbits of information about her private life. So off I went to the Tyrrell Historical Library to copy each issue of those Sunday articles. Currently, I have all the copies from 1926 to 1931. I still need those from 1932 to 1937, which will probably take approximately six months to collect and assimilate.

edhotel1While spending these countless hours reading through the Sunday Enterprise, I found out about other aspects of our history that are equally entertaining. In the late 1920s and early 1930s, after the second Spindletop oil boom, there was an enormous amount of construction taking place in the area. Indeed, most of the buildings standing today are from this time as evidenced when you drive the streets in the neighborhood near the courthouse: you will see many of Beaumont’s old buildings with a date from this era stamped on the upper frontage. (Note: There are many buildings in Port Arthur dated the same way.)6187_384311335014342_945480920_n

9533121351_f53b802117_oIt was interesting to come across articles about the construction of the then-new Edson Hotel circa 1929 and to read that the Phelan Mansion was to be ready by Christmas 1928. The Enterprise is full of Sunday articles highlighting the growth and expansion of Beaumont’s adolescent years.

I have also come to enjoy Dean Tevis’ articles on the SETX farmers of that time. I found mention of one farmer in particular, Martin Block (the great uncle of historian W. T. Block), particularly insightful since I live next door to where his house once stood here in Port Neches.

martin blockEach week brings a new beginning and a time stamp in our history. For instance, do you know that the McFaddin’s land is to be cut in two by a little waterway, to be built in 1928, called the Intercoastal?  How about the new County courthouse’s five-floor jailhouse (1931)? The more you delve into these papers, the more you lose track of time.

During these years, Beaumont was definitely a happening place. And thanks to Spindletop’s second boom, this area would not feel the full brunt of the Great Depression like so many other parts of the United States. SETX was growing and working, even into the mid to late 1930s.

So as you drive around Beaumont, especially near the river, take time to appreciate some of the restored 80-plus-year-old landmarks. They are truly treasures that are worthy of investigation.

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Dick Dowling Days 2013

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Now that the sesquicentennial of the Battle of Sabine Pass and the 50th anniversary of Dick Dowling Days has come and gone, I sit in front of this keyboard in remembrance—remembrance not of the battle itself or our history, but of the people involved in this year’s events. Whether they be the re-enactors or the historians or its proud planners, for whom I have an enormous amount of respect, especially after this celebration. I contributed only a minuscule part behind the scenes with the writing of the press release, and this pales in comparison to the sleepless nights and long volunteer days and nights that these few people put forth to make this event a success. They are to be commended and saluted. You all did an outstanding job!DSC06578

Please enjoy the photos on our Flickr page.

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I will also be posting a few videos of the battles and scenarios on our youtube page.

Dick Dowling Days 2013 Preview

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With the sesquicentennial of the battle of Sabine Pass only a day away, it is interesting to note that Dick Dowling Days turns 50 this year. And boy, what an action-packed series of events are lined up! Dick Dowling Days began as a tribute to honor Lt. Richard W. Dowling and his band of 40-plus Irishmen who, incredibly, repelled an invasion of 5,000 Federals on September 8th, 1863. It also memorializes the fallen Union marines and sailors who perished in the battle.

September 7 and 8 will be the biggest in Dick Dowling Days history with over 350 reenactors, both military and civilian. Numerous cannons and cavalry will be on guard for the planned scenarios. It will also be a great time to maneuver through the camps and get a taste of how life was in the 1860s. Dick Dowling Days is a family affair so kids of all ages are welcome.

Some of the highlights that I’m looking forward to, which are also the usual crowd favorites, are the scenarios:

–       The court martial and execution of Lt. Elijah Allen was a real event, which I only learned about at last year’s Dick Dowling Days. Lt. Allen was tried and convicted in 1864 for deserting his post in High Island and inciting his command to do the same.

 

DSC01406–       Kate Dorman is one lady whom I have come to admire since I first encountered her in April 2012. The feisty Catfish Hotel owner will be well represented at Dick Dowling Days 2013. Her scenario, confronting a Union officer while he tries to confiscate her horse and cart is a must-see.

The main highlight however is the memorial service. Representative James White and author and historian Edward Cotham will speak to honor those who perished in the battle. The Lone Star Pipe band will be on hand, as will the Order of the Confederate Rose, to give the floral tribute. A rifle and artillery salute will follow.

Another highlight of Dick Dowling Days 2013 is Jed Marum. He will be performing on both Saturday and Sunday. Jed is a talented Celtic/folk/Bluegrass musician whose music I believe everyone will enjoy. You can see more of his work at http://www.youtube.com/user/jedmarum .

Admission and parking is free. Parking will be at the Sabine Pass High School with a free bus service to and from the battleground. The gates will open to the public at 9 a.m. on both Saturday and Sunday.

 

A brief history of the battle:DSC01641

One sultry September day in 1863, a decisive victory was had by a small but well-drilled band of Irish volunteers commanded by Lt. Richard William Dowling. Union forces had planned a surprise attack by using their four gunboats as an advance party to take Fort Griffin and secure a landing site for their 18 transport ships, which carried an invading force of 5,000 men. But the Union’s secret plan quickly unraveled, and Dowling’s men were well aware of the Federal threat before it materialized.

On the afternoon of September 8, 1863, Union forces began their attack with a barrage of artillery fire on the fort. Later, it was intended that the Union gunboat Sachem would make its way up the Louisiana side of the channel in the hope of drawing fire from all of Fort Griffin’s guns while the Clifton, one of the Union’s main ships, would sneak up through the Texas side of the channel in an attempt to take out the fort’s artillery. But Dowling’s gunners immediately disabled the Sachem by sending a shot into her boiler. With the Sachem’s threat dealt with, Dowling turned the guns toward the oncoming Clifton. A shot through the wheelhouse disabled the steering of the Clifton and sent her aground. After a brief onslaught of canon fire, the Clifton surrendered. Seeing the two gunboats taken out so quickly, the invading force opted to retreat rather than to lose more men and guns. In the end Dowling’s men took 350 prisoners and had no casualties. The Union forces lost 50 men, with scores wounded.

DSC01428SCHEDULE of EVENTS

Saturday 9-7-13
9:00 Gates open to the public
10:00 Court Martial & Execution
11:00 150th Anniversary Memorial Ceremony
2:00 Battle: Union Attack & Occupation of Sabine City
3:00 Jed Marum in Concert

Sunday 9-8-13
9:00 Gates open to the public
9:00 Church Service
10:00 Court Martial & Execution
11:00 Jed Marum in Concert
2:00 Battle: Union attack on the Garrison at Sabine City

 

Museum of Hardin County

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Museum of Hardin County

 

A lot of new things are afoot in Hardin County. I’ve wanted to explore the history of my northern neighbors for quite some time now, and I found a treasure trove of contacts, historians, and awesome people who love their part of SETX. I was overjoyed to be on hand at the ribbon cutting of the new museum at 830 Maple Street in Kountze, Texas, and I was definitely not alone in the celebration. Many locals pitched up to see just what these determined citizens had established. All I can say is that the Hardin County Genealogical Society and Library (HCGS) has done a fantastic job. I know that loads of hard work went into the creation of this treasured site, which will not only benefit the citizens of Hardin County, but all the people of SETX as well.IMG_5813

The museum is located in the old Hardin County State Bank building, which was built circa 1916. Purchased in 2009 by the HCGS, the building’s renovation was undertaken by its volunteers and funded through donations, grants, and proceeds from book sales. As an aside, I will add that I do love Renée Hart Wells’ book, Hardin County: A Pictorial History. It is one of my favorites in my growing library of SETX authors. It is also one of the books whose sales have funded this project. Mrs. Wells has written a new book, Hardin County: Timeless Treasures, which is also available for purchase at the museum. It will certainly be my next purchase.

IMG_5846The second floor of the museum houses the Hardin County Historical Commission. It has been refurbished and transformed into a grand meeting place for its members.

Overall, the museum is an excellent venue for anyone looking for historic information on Hardin County. The people I met there seemed eager to promote their vast heritage, and I for one place high value on the work they are doing. I look forward with great anticipation to hearing more about the developments in Hardin County and rediscovering this part of SETX.IMG_5795

 

 

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Beaumont Police Department Museum

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I recently visited a museum that is not well known although, if you’re a SETX elementary teacher or student, you may be familiar with it. I visited the Beaumont Police Department’s History Museum, and boy, was I amazed at the range of artifacts, historical photos, and weapons on display at what was once the old Beaumont jail.DSC05317

It made me think back to the 1970s when I attended school in Port Arthur. As fourth or fifth graders, my classmates and I toured the Port Arthur jail. My only recollection of this was a prisoner, who was probably a frequent visitor, talking to us through the cell bars and the Bloomfield Hills law firm handling sex crimes claims by telling us that crime doesn’t pay, and we mustn’t allow ourselves to end up in prison. To a young child, this was a definite deterrent, but we never really learned anything of historical value that I can remember. Truth be told, the Port Arthur Police Department may also have a museum and tours, but I have yet to revisit the venue of my juvenile field trip.

DSC05318My first impression of this Beaumont tour without a doubt was one of amazement at the volume of historical content and artifacts that these slim halls possess. Whether it’s the badges, well-preserved uniforms, or the multiple armaments that criminals have donated over the years, this assortment of crime paraphernalia would make any collector drool.

Another enjoyable display was of the countless mug shots that our not-so-model citizens have generously donated, along with descriptions of the plethora of their crimes. From knob knocking (stealing and then breaking into a safe) and close-line thievery, to even voodoo (presumably not the well-intentioned kind), it was definitely a glimpse into a different time.DSC05322

My main objective for this trip was to delve into Beaumont’s early history of law enforcement, and as I’ve already said, the Beaumont officials have done a wonderful job of bringing the past to life. As you take the tour, there is much to absorb. There is a lot of personal history about officers long since passed, who in their humble way made a difference in the community.

DSC05316In my opinion, this is a must-see for anyone with a desire for knowledge about local history, and I for one will return to take a more extensive look at those officers whose stories I believe need to be told.DSC05320

Tyrrell Park Community Building

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There has been much talk about the Tyrrell Park Community Building and the dire need to save this structure from demolition. In fact, this talk goes all the way back to 2005, after Hurricane Rita. The building is in a state of major decay. The roof has collapsed in three different places, and the plywood that was intended as a temporary fix in 2005 and 2008 (after Hurricanes Rita and Ike, respectively) has added considerable weight to what is left of the existing roof, adding to its demise.

Built in 1935 by the Civilian Conservation Corps, the Tyrrell Park Community Building was converted into a prisoner-of-war camp during World War II. The camp housed around 200 soldiers who worked in the rice fields until the end of the war. Later the building was used as a popular site for gatherings, such as weddings, parties, and other community get-togethers. It has been vacant since 2004.tcb5

In 2008, $90,000 was spent drawing up plans for the full restoration of the building as well as the surrounding grounds. The budgeted cost at the time was $2.5 million, but the Beaumont City Council did not move forward with the restoration. (It must be noted that a simple roof, even after Hurricane Ike, would not have cost near $2.5 million.) Five years later, there has still not been a shred of restoration activity, let alone an attempt to fix the roof.

As of the time of this posting, the 2014 budget for the Capital Program has been submitted, and it is clear that there will be no progress in this matter. To the Council’s credit, they have maintained the Jefferson and Julie Rogers Theaters, renovated the old Whitehouse and J.C. Penny’s department stores, and built a community center at Alice Keith Park. Furthermore, there is extensive provision in the new budget for street improvements, which I can understand. Roads and the upkeep of city services are an obvious priority.

tcb4What I don’t understand is how over $10 million can be spent on a brand new event center, which, in my opinion, is nice but will not make any money. Indeed, Beaumont politics is renowned for building unprofitable centers. (How’s Ford Park doing?)

Some of you may have seen a story in the news about drilling in Tyrrell Park. The gas well was to bring in millions in revenue to the Park, but as of this posting, just under $500k has found its way there. Again, a mere roof for the building will not cost millions.tcb3

Ultimately the resolution of this issue rests in the hands of the residents and voters of Beaumont. I am not a Beaumont resident, nor do I have a say in any of Beaumont’s internal affairs. However, as a U.S. citizen, I have vested interest in the restoration of our public buildings and the preservation of our heritage. I hope that Beaumont residents will contact their council members regarding this issue and also bear this in mind at election time.

Godspeed, Beaumont. May your roofs be sturdy and sound.

Interurban Railway

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Interurban Railcar

While browsing through old files of newspaper articles and photos at the Jefferson County Historical Commission I noticed the repeated mention of a train that travelled between Beaumont and Port Arthur. This is not unexpected since Port Arthur’s existence is owed to Arthur Stilwell’s dream of building a railroad between Kansas City and the Gulf coast. In fact, railroads were in place in this area even before the Civil War, but this particular railroad was different. And that is where our journey begins.

In the early 1900s, both Port Arthur and Beaumont were thriving. Oil had surpassed cattle and lumber as the major export of SETX, and many people had come here at the turn of the century to earn a better living. A burgeoning industry as well as a growing population had given rise to the need for transportation between the two cities, and in 1913, Jefferson County residents received a gem. DSC05506

Electric Interurban Railways had slowly been creeping into existence around the turn of the century, and in November of 1911, SETX would also benefit from this thanks to a Boston engineering company called the Stone and Webster Corporation (SWC). The SWC purchased the Beaumont Ice, Light, and Refrigeration Company, which later became the Beaumont Electric Light and Power Company, along with the Port Arthur Water Company, which became Port Arthur Power and Light Company, a year later. Both companies would be under the control of the Eastern Texas Electric Company (of Maine), a holding Company formed by the SWC.

In July of 1913, the SWC purchased the Beaumont Traction Company, thus acquiring 12 miles of track, the overhead electric lines, 20 passenger cars, and a car barn. This, along with the formation of the Jefferson County Traction Company, laid the groundwork for a rail system between Beaumont and Port Arthur. Acquiring the right of way through the county was a simple task since most of the landowners and farmers welcomed the idea of easy transportation to and from the cities. Most gave the required land away or sold it for a mere dollar.

The Interurban made its debut on December 15, 1913, much to the delight of the many local residents who would make use of its services rather than travel by horseback or wagon. The train would make 19 trips per day with an early start of 5:45 am and a midnight finish. Tickets cost 90 cents for a roundtrip or 50 cents one way and were prorated for the 10 stops between the two cities. Stops along the way included South Park, Spindletop, Nederland, Rice Farm, and Griffing/ Pear Ridge.

DSC05656Certainly the railway was a great asset to Jefferson County during its run, and in 1915, it aided the fleeing residents of Port Arthur during a hurricane until a power outage stranded the train. Some passengers rode out the storm, spending a total of 12 hours in the rail cars.

The Interurban and the elements collided at other times, too. In the Beaumont Enterprise dated December 21st, 1924, it was reported that an ice storm hit the area damaging some of the electric lines and leaving the street car service at a standstill until workers could repair the lines.

Finally in August of 1932, the Interurban railway made its final departure, ending 19 years of service. Although it had survived hurricanes, ice storms, and other element-related hardships, it could not survive progress. By the 1930s, private ownership of cars, and a bus system ultimately shutdown the need for a passenger railway between Beaumont and Port Arthur.

Sources: J.W. McManus, Handbook of Texas Online, Beaumont Enterprise (1924), and the Jefferson County Historical Commission.

 

Life in Jefferson County during World War II

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It was a dark time as war spread throughout the world. Sons and even daughters from all walks of life answered the call and left SETX to unselfishly put their lives in danger for a united cause. Some would return a few years later while others made the ultimate sacrifice. On the home front, many did their part in conserving, rationing, and doing whatever else it took to aid the war effort.

During the war there was always a more legitimate threat here compared to inland areas. In the 1940s, Southeast Texas was known for its refineries and shipbuilding. Two major concerns plagued the minds of residents often: U-boats and sabotage. German submarines were a reality along the Gulf coast and sank many ships, costing numerous lives. Fortunately sabotage was only a concern and not a reality in the daily lives of the workers at the area’s refineries.

Doing my research of this time, I noticed mention of victory gardens sprouting up around the country, and the same could be said here although most people in our area already had gardens and fruit trees, which they had tended to since the days of the Depression.

For most residents, life was as normal as it could be under the circumstances. Unfortunately, air raid drills and an absence of lights at night were the norm. In addition, if you lived near the railroad tracks, especially where the tank cars were stored, you were guaranteed that on moonless nights, tank cars would be maneuvered, loaded with fuel and moved north. Obviously, the movement could not be detected from the air in the pitch blackness. Luckily our area, as with the entire mainland, never experienced an aerial attack.

Residents’ news sources were limited during the war. Of course, the daily paper was the main source of information for most, but many people also had radios, which they gathered around each evening to hear the news of the day. News reels at the theater were another popular news resource, but to some of the common folk, a trip to the movies was rare.

After sitting down with a few people and listening to their accounts of this time, I can’t help but feel a sense of admiration. Yes, these were troubled times, but they forged ahead and rose to each and every challenge. To have lived through the Depression and a world war is a immense feat. The people of this time were, and are, our greatest generation.

Rediscovering You’re One Year Old

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With the conclusion of the 39th Annual Galveston Historic Homes Tour, I can’t help but notice that it has been one year since this blog began. The people I have met, the places I have seen, and the history I have learned have been priceless. In reflecting on this past year, I find myself asking: where should I begin?

The Peoplefs14

Certainly there are many people who deserve a spot in my wishful “if I could go back in time and talk to” roundtable discussion. Two obvious candidates who would be high on my list are Kate Dorman and Florence Stratton, both of whom I did not know of before early April 2012. I will refrain from adding the other eight in light of a future blog.

One of the most interesting lives that I have stumbled upon certainly has to be that of Blind Willie. Something about being at my first Jefferson County Historical Commission meeting and hearing his name enticed me to find out just how this Beaumont resident had contributed to music.BlindWillieJohnson

Later, I delved into Richard William Dowling’s life beyond the battles he fought. Although such a young man, he accomplished a great deal. Indeed, if he had lived longer, his run of prosperity would surely have continued, and some say he might probably even have run for governor of Texas. Unfortunately we will never know the impact of what could have been. 0_DickDowling

 

 

 

 

The Places

FountainThis blog was created in part because I wanted to cast a spotlight on some of the great treasures that we have in SETX. Not forgetting the three gems in Port Arthur, namely, the Pompeiian Villa, the Vuylsteke, and White Haven, I will say that Beaumont’s Chambers House is my favorite hands-down. All these places have a certain mystique about them, which I love.

I was also thrilled to learn of the Neches River Adventure Tour, and thoroughly enjoyed the rich beauty of our area when I took a trip down the Neches River and spent time amongst the cypress trees.DSC02289

One of my favorite explorations has to be the Jefferson County Courthouse. All thirteen floors, including the old jail, revealed yet another part of our history that I never knew existed.JC Courthouse Jail

 

The History

SETX has its share of historical significance, and I was able to delve into just a small portion of it over the past year. From the discovery of stalags throughout Texas, including Jefferson and Orange counties, to a civil war battle in Sabine Pass and the majestic lighthouse, which stood guard for nearly 100 years. I also explored the destructive aspect of living on the Gulf coast via our tropical storm history.100.jpg

Legends of our past, like Kisselpoo or Bragg Road, have had a fascinating hold on this researcher when digging for the root of the source.

Learning of the existence and disappearance of an oil pond just off the coast of Texas Point filled me with many more questions, including whether or not Spindletop had a hand in its disappearance.

The Future

This has been an epic year in terms of my thirst for both discovering and rediscovering SETX’s past, and I see much of the same in the next year. I will certainly be exploring Orange and Hardin counties a bit more.

As importantly however, I would like to know what you would like to see here, whether it is the houses, museums, people, or history. You can contact me by email rediscoveringsetx@gmail.com. Alternatively, you can also leave a comment on our Facebook page or @RediscoveringSE on Twitter. Here’s to another great year rediscovering SETX!