Rediscovering SETX Going Forward

 

My absence from posting weekly blogs these past few months is not without cause. A few of you know I have finished my book, Blood of the Innocent, which is a fictional story that takes place here in Southeast Texas in 1875. I hope to release it in May this year. It is partially historic fiction. I say partially because, due to the nature of the story, I did not want to include actual people from early Beaumont history.

I have also been doing research about the historian, journalist, and author, Florence Stratton (1881–1938). Her contribution to this area is second to none, and I believe she deserves to be honored with a historical marker depicting her achievements. I have therefore started the process. It has been difficult to find accurate information about her in the months since I started this journey (I truly believe Florence likes her secrets), but as of this posting, I believe I have an accurate timeline of her life.

Accuracy resonates with me because I started this blog to share our rich history as precisely as possible, but that is hard to do on a weekly basis. Research needs to done on each subject, but even in-depth research can be wrong when a historic source is incorrect. Understandably, people make mistakes, but I want to provide as accurate an account as I can in my postings.

As my research is ongoing, I constantly discover more and more history from this area that few, including myself, have never heard of. This is what I feel is a priority to include on this blog. I do not call myself a historian. That is a label for people like Bill Quick (whose papers I have been honored to go through these past two Saturdays at the Sam Houston Regional Library), W. T. Block, Judith Linsley, and others who have documented our past.

As this blog goes forward, I want to promote more places, such as houses, museums, etc., by offering access for people to visit and learn about our past. I do have a few people whose history I want to delve into in the future. I will do this as accurately as possible.

I will say this however: my time spent in these places has been nothing less than awesome, and I am enjoying the ride.

Paul

La Maison Beausoleil Museum

 

La Maison BeausoleilLately I have spent every non-working minute doing research for an upcoming project, which I will elaborate on at a later date. This can be very fun and interesting, but spending hours upon hours peering into a computer screen and/or microfilm at the historical library does tend to be tedious and time-consuming. That is why, today, I decided I’d had enough. It was time to take a break. So, with camera in hand, I headed out the door toward the river. 

As I drove down Grigsby Avenue, near the old jail, I noticed that the windows of the old cabin in Port Neches Park were open. Of course, I had to investigate, so I immediately began my exploration.Grigsby's Bluff Jail

Truth be told, I have wanted to tour this small 200-year-old museum for a long time, but I was either unable to make it to the park at the time the volunteer was there or the house was closed up. To be fair, the owners of these obscure little historic homes are not able to have either a paid or unpaid docent available a lot of the time. It is the same with other larger places, such as the Vuylsteke Home, White Haven (Port Arthur), or the smaller T.J. Chambers House (Anahuac). It is not feasible to keep someone there permanently, and volunteers are becoming few and far between, so most times you must call ahead to tour.DSC04233

Le Maison Beausoleil (the House of Beautiful Sunshine) was built around 1810 in St. Martin Parish, Louisiana. It was donated by the descendants of the original owner, Joseph Broussard Dit Beausoleil, and transported via barge to its current site in Port Neches Park. The cabin/museum was restored and opened to the public in 1988 by Les Acadiens du Texas, a club promoting the rich culture and heritage of the Acadien (Cajun) people.

Loom @ La Maison BeausoleilThe first thing that sticks out amongst the many artifacts is the loom and spinning wheel. Other items of interest were the musical instruments, miniature replica houses, and the old family Bible.DSC04208

Overall, Les Acadiens du Texas does a good job of promoting their heritage with this museum. I just hope that it will be open more regularly on weekends for all to enjoy.

DSC04222This is the touring information, but I would definitely call ahead to confirm anyhow: Le Maison Beausoleil is open Saturday and Sunday from 1–5pm. Other times can be arranged for bus tours and special occasions by calling 409-722-3014, 409—722-5650, 409-729-0341, or 409-832-6733. There is no admission charge.

Gladys City

Gladys City

You’ve passed it countless times on Cardinal Drive while heading to your destination, but just like the Wallisville museums, you are missing a goldmine of treasures. This is most definitely the place where you can see how life was in SETX at the turn of the 20th century. Each building is from a different sector of our history. And worth the small fee charged to aid the upkeep of this fine place.

When you arrive for the tour, you are first shown a brief film on the origins of Spindletop and how Gladys City was formed. After that you can take a self-guided tour through the different buildings at your own pace. The countless artifacts and old trinkets that the curators have acquired are amazing. As I found myself browsing through them all, I couldn’t help but think back to my old neighbor, Roy, because I had seen a lot of the tools displayed here in his shop.DSC00264

My particular favorites in Gladys City are the general store, the photograph shop, and the printing shop. There are countless photos from this period that I could—and did—spend hours looking over.

After your tour, I would highly recommend having a look through the gift shop. Whether it’s the abundance of local books from local authors or the countless jars of jams and preserves, there’s something for everyone. My personal favorite is the fig preserve.

DSC00268Gladys City, I believe, is a great teaching tool to educate both young and old about what it was like to live at the turn of the 20th century. Oil was the new path to riches back then, and many came here seeking just that. There are many stories, both told and untold, from this era, and I hope to delve into them at a later time.

 

Gladys City is located o the Lamar University campus at 5550  University Drive, Beaumont, Texas 77705

Note All pricing and touring information was taken from Spindletops website which can be found below.

http://www.spindletop.org/

Admission prices

Adults $5
Seniors 60+ $3
Children Ages 6-12 $2
Children 5 & younger Free
Lamar University students, faculty, staff, retirees and alumni are admitted free, w/valid ID.
Active military, including Reserves & National Guard, their spouses and dependents receive free admission from Memorial Day through Labor Day as part of the Blue Star Museums program sponsored by the National Endowment for the Arts.

Touring Information:

Gladys City is available for special guided tours for groups of 10 or more Tuesday through Friday at 10 a.m. and 1 p.m. Groups of 10 or more visiting on Saturday or Sunday may receive the special tour rate for a self-guided tour. Tours usually last one hour to 90 minutes.

Special rates for adult groups are $3 each for Adults, $2 each for Adults 60+. Much of the museum complex is wheelchair accessible and benches are provided on the porches of several buildings.

For youth tours, including public and private schools, home school groups, and scout troops, during the regular school year (September-May), admission is free for all youth and one chaperone for every ten students is free. Additional chaperones pay the regular adult tour admission fee of $3. Admission for youth tours during the summer (June-August) is $1 per person, including youth and adults.

Gladys City can accommodate up to 150 children in one tour. It is requested that large groups have at least one chaperone for every ten children.

Past and Present: Historians are a Precious Resource

 

No one can argue that Southeast Texas doesn’t have a rich and diverse history although, if you would ask most people around here, they would probably tell you that everything started with Spindletop. Well, we know better. We know this because of a certain few individuals who took the time—sometimes their whole lives—to document and explore our past. It is these people whom I hold in the highest regard.

In my journey to discover Southeast Texas history, I have been fortunate to find many articles, books, and other sources of information that have aided my research. From our first historian, Florence Stratton, to W.T. Block, Bill Quick, Judith Walker Linsley, Ellen Walker Rienstra, Edward T. Cotham, Martha “Toodlum” Ferguson, Yvonne Sutherlin, and the many others whose works I have yet to explore.

These people have taken the time and done the legwork to valiantly give us a true picture of what has gone before. Indeed, our history is not just the battles in Sabine Pass or the discovery of oil south of Beaumont. And these people have weaved their way through our history to bring us the stories that I love to discover. 

When I think of Sabine Pass, Kate Dorman is the first person who comes to mind. It is people like her who bring a real sense of history to our area. When I think of Richard W. Dowling, I see someone who accomplished many things in his short life away from the battlefield. The list of participants in our past goes on and on. Many had very interesting lives, which would have been forgotten were not for those few who keep our heritage alive. Beyond the glamour of historic recognition, most of these people lived their lives away from the history books, and we are fortunate to still be able to learn about them.

In doing research, some of my favorite portals to our history are of course the old books and articles from a time long since passed, such as The Story of Beaumont by Florence Stratton (1925), the Beaumont American Guide series (1930s), and of course, Susie Spindletop’s Weekly Letter (1920s and 30s), all of which you can find at the Tyrrell Historical Library.

One thing that I find fascinating when reading these insights is the absence of the present’s take on history. The past is still fresh, and you can tell this from the writings. Also, I will add that you can learn a lot about how people thought by reading a gossip column written 80-plus years ago.

Another source of information that I have been blessed to encounter is the Jefferson County Historical Commission’s treasures from current members and those members who have passed on. It was there that I began to see the bigger picture of what we face: sadly we are losing our historians. When these people are gone, so goes the knowledge of our past. This is why it is so important to document it, write it, photograph it, in any way you can. It is our heritage, our past, and we owe future historians this courtesy.

I treasure those who have taken the time to investigate my area’s past. Hopefully I can humbly add to their contributions in some way. They were, and are, my mentors, people who I wish I had known. If it weren’t for them, our historical knowledge would be nonexistent.

 

 

 

 

Food for Thought in Port Arthur Texas (70’s- 80’s)

Growing up in Port Arthur in the 1970s did have its finer points to some degree. As a kid I had no idea what Bernis Sadler (then the mayor) was up to nor did I care. My main concern was whether or not Monceaux Drive In had those delectable and greasy onion rings with my cheeseburger deluxe served in a cardboard pie box. Truth be told, there is nothing that comes close. Similarly, onion rings are unbeatable one ! (Baby Boomers will remember Monceaux’s for the root-beer among other things.)

Over the course of two decades, I have discovered many eateries in my hometown, and there were many. One that comes to mind is a little takeout place called Hartman’s, which was located on Bluebonnet Avenue. If you loved home-style cooking, then this was a gem. I can remember walking in and feeling as if I was in someone’s house, except for the screen door attached to the kitchen from which an elderly man emerged with your plate lunch after you had ordered it from a very nice elderly lady.

These two people were delightful. As far as I could tell, these were the Hartman’s, and one could believe this except for their heavy Cajun accents. One thing that sticks out in my mind is that, when I would call ahead, the lady would ask what I wanted. My answer, of course, was the Étouffée, but there were many things besides the main course. “So what are the sides?”

“Well, we got lima beans, string beans, pinto beans, red beans, white beans, and (it always ended with) black-eyed peas.”

Whatever the sides, this was something to treasure. Speaking of treasure, I also remember a place next to Roy’s Food Center on Lewis Drive called the Brisket Room. The chip beef sandwiches were the best barbeque—or at least they were until I found Billy Joe’s in Port Neches.

Port Arthur seemed to always promote itself as the friendliest city by the sea. Well, Port Arthur is not by the sea, it’s by a lake, but I will give credit to the seafood. There were three restaurants that I enjoyed. The first and foremost was Leo and Willie’s. There was no place better in the 80s—except on Thursdays. On Thursdays I would order a seafood platter from the Texas Fish Net Restaurant. There was no one who had better catfish than the Fish Net!

And let us not forget about the Farm Royale on Memorial. Back in the day, most knew this place to be an upper-class eatery, and they weren’t mistaken. Other eateries offering decent seafood (technically I do not know if they are in Port Arthur, but they are worth mentioning) are Domingue’s on the Neches (under the Rainbow Bridge) and of course, Esther’s. Yes, I do know the latter is in Groves, Texas, but it was just a great place to eat back when.

Finally, sometimes we craved Mexican food, and there was no better place at the time to treat ourselves than under the train bridge at Taco Rey, or my favorite, Guadalajara on 9th Avenue. Both had pretty good Tex-Mex food. Nowadays Taco Rey can be found on Nederland (where it’s safe), and Guadalajara still has a restaurant in Orange Texas.

Please forgive this minor indulgence because this blog really has no historic value other than me remembering those greasy onion rings, chip beef sandwiches, plate lunches, catfish, and tacos from places and times long since passed.

Eddingston Court Port Arthur Texas

Eddingston Court 1929

There is one place in Port Arthur that has always fascinated me even though I’ve never had the pleasure of visiting it. Over the years, the grounds of Eddingston Court have made me think of English-inspired flats and gardens. So how did this property come to be, and what is its history?

In 1929 Port Arthur was short of rental properties due in part to the expanding oil industry. Tugboat captain and businessman Ambrose Eddingston saw an opportunity and commissioned the construction of four two-story Tudor brick apartment buildings along with a pond, which lay in the middle of the drive between the buildings. A one-story brick ranch-style home was also built at the end of the drive.DSC00039

Given the time it was built, circa 1929, it must have been quite a sight to see the finished edifice. I have personally always been a fan of English architecture and gardens, so to have been among the Port Arthur residents of the period would no doubt have just added to my ardor.

Given the eccentric flare of the property’s pond and structures, you would think that these would have been sufficient, but Ambrose Eddingston had another visual treat for passersby. The captain had 6,000 Conch shells imported from the Caymen Islands, and these went into the construction of a wall at the front of the property. Ambrose Eddingston commissioned Dionicio Rodriguez, a Mexican-born sculpture who was living in San Antonio at the time, to construct the fence and the pond. (As an aside, Rodriguez was not only known for his wonderful works, but he also perfected a process in which he carved chemically treated reinforced concrete so that it looked like wood.)

During the subsequent 76 years, this property underwent a few minor changes but still maintained its English-style charm, providing tenants with a place to call home. Some residents even stayed for multiple decades. Sadly, just as with many other properties in this area, Hurricane Rita unleashed her fury upon it, and it was damaged. In 2008, Hurricane Ike also damaged the structures, and it has lain vacant ever since.

DSC00041

Nowadays, you will notice as you go past the property that this glamorous artistic treasure is barricaded by a chain link fence, and a “For Sale” sign is in plain view. I can only imagine the state of the structures, which have been left as is, waiting until a new owner comes in and restores this historic gem to its former glory. Hopefully this is one Port Arthur property that will escape the wrecking ball, unlike so many other buildings over the years that have not.

Rediscovering Anahuac / Wallisville

DSC03932

If you’re like me, Anahuac is an exit sign off the I-10, which you pass as you go to and from Houston. Yes, you may notice a few old buildings lined up next to the post office, and if you’re really observant, you may see the old church that sits in the background amongst the many old oaks along the streets. A thought might enter your mind to visit this place one day and find out what these old buildings are and why they were built in the first place. But, if you’re like me, your life will get in the way, and you will forget—until your next trip to Houston.

Well, let’s flashback to last year. I acquired a job in Anahuac itself and my travels took me much farther than Exit 813 by the McDonalds. I found out that Anahuac is actually about seven miles south of the Interstate. So every other week, I travelled to this city, oblivious to its rich historic past.

One day, I made a wrong turn and ended up near the Chambers County courthouse. An odd old house caught my eye. It was two-story dwelling with nice porches and a very interesting window. I immediately stopped and felt compelled to investigate.

DSC03926

The house had belonged to a certain Thomas Jefferson Chambers, a lawyer, land speculator, and namesake for Chambers County.

Fast-forward to a few weeks ago when I took a trip to Anahuac to spend the day getting to know its sites and places of interest. And what a day it was. I found out that the Chambers County Historical Commission has a museum located across the street from the Chambers House. It is filled with photos and memorabilia of early families, landowners, and the history-makers of the past few centuries. It’s interesting to note that most of these people’s names are familiar to us from roads, bayous, and such, but most of us are unaware of the historical impact they’ve made. I guess that’s true for wherever you live.

Another plus to visiting this museum was how insightful and knowledgeable the docent was in explaining each photo and artifact. This in itself makes the visit worthwhile.

After spending time at the museum, we were lucky enough to have the Chambers House opened up for us to tour. This house, although small, was intriguing to me. From the large porches and spiral stairwell to the Texas Lone-Star window, I could see myself living there. I also enjoyed the period furnishings in the house, which were all decorated for Christmas to boot. DSC03912

Our next stop was Fort Anahuac. Sadly, nothing is left of the fort, but there are markers explaining the history. (Note: Fort Anahuac was the site of the first armed confrontation between the Anglo-Texan and Mexican troops in June of 1830.) The bluff that the fort sat on was also the site for those immigrating to what was then Mexico. As an aside, the immigrants of the time were required to pay taxes upon arrival!

Before our final stop, I took a back road and discovered an old cemetery, along with a row of oaks, which had been watching over the area for multiple centuries. It was just a beautiful sight to see, particularly since they were decorated with Spanish moss, which was hanging from their branches.

DSC03947

Near the Wallisville Heritage Park (you remember those old buildings and the post office on the highway?), we came across a house that I never knew existed. It is simply a wonderful structure—unfortunately it is private, and we were not able to tour. After doing some research and asking the docent at the Wallisville Heritage Museum, I found out that the house is the Archie and Effie Middleton House circa 1906. Their son, John Middleton, one of the founders of Heritage Park, lives there. DSC03953

Finally, after having passed it multiple times over the years, we arrived at the Wallisville Heritage Park. This private nonprofit organization was founded in 1979 by John Middleton and some others who were interested in saving the Wallisville town site. A few buildings were saved, moved to their current site (on the Interstate) and restored. One treasure is the old Wallisville schoolhouse circa 1869.

Just like the Chambers County Historical Commission Museum, there are a lot of interesting artifacts and tons of old photos. It is a memorial to a town that was nearly forgotten, as many are in our history. But thanks to John Middleton and those concerned citizens who took it upon themselves to save our history, these artifacts have been preserved.

DSC03956

As our tour of Anahuac/Wallisville’s interesting and historic sites came to a close, I felt certain I would be back again. There is much more to see. I guess I’ll need to call Houston next time and tell them I’ll be a little late.

Sabine Lighthouse

 

I can point to one site in particular that originally sparked my love for local history over 20 years ago. In fact, when I rediscovered it in 2009, it brought back a lot of memories. It was the reason that I started writing again and began my journey to rediscover our past. What is this place you ask? Well, actually, it’s technically not in SETX.

 

Just southeast of the Sabine Pass Battleground, stands a weathered and abandoned but still majestic-looking brick lighthouse that has seen and been a part of our history for many years. Even though it resides in Southwest Louisiana, I believe its roots justify honoring this historic site for both states.

 

I first saw this landmark back in the late 80s while fishing with a couple of friends. I was then—and still am to this day—in awe of this structure. But alas, it’s yet another part of history that’s yelling out to be saved. Unfortunately, the attempts to purchase and restore the site have not panned out, as it all comes down to money. And I’m certain it would take far more than would be available.

 

So how did this landmark come to be? Well, on March 3, 1849, Congress appropriated $7500 for a lighthouse to be built at Sabine Pass, but naval commander Henry Adams investigated the site and felt there was no need for it. So all of the money, less $116.80, was put back into the surplus fund.

Local citizens strongly disagreed and continued, with the help of politicians, to petition Congress for a lighthouse. Finally, four years later, Congress appropriated $30,000 for a lighthouse to be built after a different surveyor suggested that one be built on the east side of the pass. The land was obtained, and work began in the latter half of 1855.

 

The 80-foot-tall brick lighthouse went into service in late spring or early summer of 1857 but would cease operations a little over four years later with the start of the civil war.

 

During the war, the Union army used the lighthouse to spy on the progress of the Confederates, who were constructing Fort Griffin at Sabine. Unfortunately, they lost their prized looking post in April of 1863, five months before the Battle of Sabine Pass, when the lighthouse was seized by a small group of Confederates.

 

Oh, how different history would have been if the Union soldiers had kept the lighthouse. With their knowledge of the fort, including the fact that it had no protective back wall, one can only imagine that the Battle of Sabine Pass would have been nothing more than a skirmish after 6000 Union soldiers flanked the 50 Davis guards and Lt. Richard Dowling. Sure, they still would have to have dealt with Kate Dorman (see Kate Dorman post), but even Kate probably couldn’t have handled all those Federals by herself.

The lighthouse returned to service on December 23, 1865, after the end of the war, and its beacon would continue to shine for more than 87 years. There would be many trials and tribulations within this time, especially of the tropical kind.

 

In October 1886, a strong tropical cyclone ravaged Southeast Texas and Southwest Louisiana (see The Destructive Side of History post), destroying the keeper’s house adjacent to the lighthouse. Some have said that the surge was 10 feet high while others say 20. But whatever the actual height, it left total devastation in its wake and 150 dead in Sabine Pass—except for the lighthouse across the Pass.

 

There would be other storms that raged upon this land, but the structure has stood sound throughout. It took  the winds of progress to seal its fate. On the morning of May 21, 1952, the light dimmed for the last time, ending a part of our history forever.

 

Today it sits in hazardous decay. Unsafe to enter, but from afar, it still holds the majestic glow that I have come to love. I hope that one day she will be saved, but it will be a long and hard journey before her light shines again.

 

Elisha O. Brewer Cemetery

 

 

Not many people know about the grave off Amoco Road just south of Beaumont. I never knew of it until it was pointed out to me while I was working at Oiltanking Beaumont (formerly Amoco). After looking over the cracked stone, I knew there was a story there, but what story, I did not know.

That night I did an internet search for Elisha Brewer, the name on the headstone, and found an article written by W. T. Block, which was first published in the Beaumont Enterprise on November 13, 1999. It told the story of Elisha O. Brewer, who, after visiting the deathly ill mayor of Beaumont, Columbus Caswell, had been un-harnessing his wagon when his horse had kicked him in the groin. Elisha died a short time later. He was 31.

Elisha Brewer was the grandson of Christian Hillebrandt, a cattle baron, who was the namesake of Hillebrandt Bayou. His wife Mary was the granddaughter of John Sparks, the first settler and founder of the Sparks settlement (Aurora), which was the precursor to the city of Port Arthur.

It is unclear why Elisha O. Brewer had been buried in what would have been his backyard 129 years ago. Possibly it was out of haste or necessity, but whatever the reason, we can assume from the words on his gravestone that he was deeply missed.

“Since thou canst no longer stay

To cheer me thy love

I hope to meet with thee again

In yon bright world above.”

Elisha O. Brewer

February 2, 1852 – August 5, 1883

The grave is located less than a hundred yards from Amoco Road, and the small fence surrounding the hallowed site can be seen from Highway 347. Although it is technically on Oiltanking Beaumont’s property, it is not located in a fenced or restricted area. With that said, I do make a point of driving past the grave and up to the guard shack and explaining to security why I’m there and what I am doing.

 

Preserving History

A few weeks back, I visited Broussard’s Cemetery, which is located on Labelle Road in west Jefferson County. There are few words that I can type here to adequately describe the condition of this sacred place, but I will try to do so.

At first sight, you would never know that there is a cemetery in front of you. The multiple years of abandonment have permitted the overgrowth of brush, vines, and trees to flourish. I actually had to use a few commercial trimmers to cut a trail through to the first grave. So who’s at fault, and where are the keepers of these plots of history?

Actually there are none. In my opinion, blame cannot lay at any particular person’s feet since this place is very old. It’s a sad fact of history that is becoming more and more frequent. Whether they are cemeteries, old abandoned sites, houses, or even simply a lack of interest in our past, a lot of our history is disappearing.

But all hope isn’t lost. There are organizations, commissions, and societies that do wonderful work in maintaining our history. There is a plethora of people behind the scenes who volunteer their time and finances toward specific purposes. Some people even dedicate a lifetime to their cause, and they are to be commended. Any help to these organizations, whether monetary or by way of voluntary effort, would no doubt be gladly appreciated.

So what is to become of Broussard’s Cemetery? There are passionate people who I believe will bring the needed care and attention to this historic site. But it all comes down to individuals with enough enthusiasm and a sufficient work ethic to take the time to correct this travesty. Because in the end, that’s what it takes: hard work and dedication to a cause.

If you would like to learn more about the Southeast Texas organizations that work to preserve our heritage or would like to donate your time, here are a few that would be most appreciative:

Jefferson County Historical Commission :

http://www.co.jefferson.tx.us/historical_commission/links.htm

Chambers County Historical Commission:

http://www.cchcnews.com/

Galveston County Historical Commission:

http://www.co.galveston.tx.us/Museum/historical_commission.asp

Orange County:

http://www.hcwilliams.com/

Beaumont Heritage Society:

http://www.beaumontheritage.org/

Galveston Historical Foundation:

http://www.galvestonhistory.org/